Veliko Tarnovo
There is perhaps no city in Eastern Europe with a setting more spectacular and romantic than Veliko Tarnovo, the city of the tsars.
The above quote is from the Lonely Planet guide to Bulgaria and they are not wrong. What we have seen in the last 6 days has filled us with so many memories, it will be hard to leave.
For our stay here we booked into The Hotel Tsaravets which is in the old part of the town. We received a lovely, warm and friendly reception when we arrived in the cold and wet of the first rainy day that we had seen in Bulgaria. Our room was comfortable with a large double bed, ample room for 2 adults and a dog! Each room has an ensuite wet room with lovely hot showers and clean fluffy towels; just what you need after a hard day's sight seeing. There is Cable TV to catch up on any news and a mini bar well stocked with cold drinks, snacks and the odd alcoholic beverage should you wish to have nightcap. The hotel has superb wi-fi access if you have your own laptop but if you haven't, do not worry, as the hotel provides a computer in the upper lobby for guests to use at any time.
The staff could not be more helpful, they all speak English very well and are keen to improve their understanding of the language at any time, so long chats over coffee in the reception bar became a regular thing. They will book reservations at restaurants, call taxis, make coffee and give insights into their town, country and lifestyle at no extra charge - just a smile and a thank you is all they ask. We could not have had a better place to stay and of course Jake was not only accepted but became a real favourite, winning the hearts of all the young receptionists.
The Old Town
The hotel is well placed overlooking the Tsaravets Hill which is the most famous part of Veliko Tarnovo. The Hill was the main fortress of the medival Bulgarian capital, but was inhabited as early as the 2nd millenium BC. Many excavations have been undertaken and the hill is now a museum site where you can wander around and see the excavations. This is also the site of the famous Light and Sound show. Most evenings once it is dark the Show plays out on the hill, depicting the history of "Turnovgrad" as the capital was once called. I did try to take some pictures but it is difficult without a specialised camera.
Tsaravets Hill
Part of the Light Show
Guarding the gateway to the Hill
The valley between the 2 hills
On the other side of the river is the Trapezista Hill which was also inhabited way back in the 3rd millenium BC and excavations are still being done there.
Walking away from the Hill takes you toward the main part of the town. The streets are very hilly, buildings jostling for room on the slopes of the ravine gouged out over centuries by the river. There are signs of more modern history visible in many places. The Monument of The Assens is dedicated to the Bulgarian Kings who reigned between 1185 & 1241. It was built in honour of the 800th anniversary of the proclaimation of Turnovo as the capital of Bulgaria.
The Monument of The Assens
In many places where buildings have been removed, remaining walls have had murals added depicting historic or religous scenes. This is one that we saw at a seating/viewing area along the main street. In fact this is the area from where we took the above photo.
Up off the main street, the older parts of the town have been restored and now house many art and antique shops. One of these is Georgi Sava Rakovski Street. It was once a major trading market for craftsmen. We did not have time to visit the whole of the street but this is a photo of the entrance to it.
From here the main street becomes very similar to many tourist resort thoroughfares with cafes, boutiques, souvenir shops and restaurants. some of the best food we had was at EGO a very busy establishment but with stunning views if you can get a terrace table. A very popular place is Shtastlivesta - translates to the Happy Man - although Pizza Tempo on Slaveykov Square is more homely and they will even deliver to your apartment if you are in the town.
Following the street called Nezavissmost you come to a small park by the Post Office - the building marked бTK in the photo below.
In the park is another monument.This is The Monument of the Perished in the Wars. The wars commemorated are the Russian - Turkish 1877-78, Serbian - Bulgarian 1885, the Balkan Wars 1912-1913 and the First World War 1915 - 1918. The monument is also known as "Mother Bulgaria" due to the figure atop the monument.
More images of VT
The house of the little Monkey
Samovodska Charshia
Georgi Sava Rakovski Street
More from sound and Light show